Have you ever wondered what it’s like to stand before that floating torii you’ve seen in countless magazines and postcards from Japan? In Miyajima, you can experience it firsthand. This enchanting island, often referred to as “Deer Island”, is the perfect place to escape the crowds and soak in its almost magical atmosphere.
Itsukushima shrine and the Floating Torii
At the heart of Miyajima is Itsukushima shrine, the island’s main attraction.
Fun fact: the island is officially named Itsukushima, but it’s commonly called Miyajima, meaning “shrine island”. This UNESCO World Heritage Site has been a symbol of Japan since 1996, and its serene beauty is enhanced by the friendly wild deer that roam the area, much like in Nara. These curious animals often approach visitors, adding a unique charm to your experience. Just remember, while they might seem tame, they’re still wild animals, so avoid feeding or startling them!
One of the best ways to reach the shrine is with a peaceful walk along the coast from the ferry terminal. Along the way, you’ll get fantastic views of the sea and, of course, spot the famous deer. This shrine itself was originally built in the 6th century and later reconstructed in the 18th century.
The Shinto complex, connected by walkways that seem to float on water at high tide, is a breathtaking example of Heian-period architecture. The design is intentional, reflecting the Shinto belief that nature, particularly mountains, is sacred.
And then there’s the iconic floating torii gate—one of Japan’s most recognizable landmarks. Standing over 16 meters tall, the current structure dates back to 1875 and is the eighth reconstruction since the original was built in 1168. Watching the torii at sunset, as the sky and sea are bathed in warm colors, is a memory you won’t soon forget.
- The shrine entrance fee is 300 yen, and another 300 yen will grant you access to the Treasure Hall. A combined ticket is also available for 500 yen.
- The shrine is open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., except in December when it closes an hour earlier.
- The Treasure Hall operates from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
The Magic of the Tides
If you’re planning a visit, keep an eye on the tide schedule. Personally, I think the torii looks its best when the tide is high, making it appear to float on the water—it’s like something straight out of a dream. However, when the tide is low, you can actually walk right up to the base of the gate, which is a unique experience in itself.
I recommend arriving early to avoid the crowds and staying until evening, when the shrine and torii are illuminated, offering a different yet equally stunning view.
You can check tide times here to better plan your visit.
Senjokaku Hall and the Five-Story Pagoda
Another must-see is Hokoku Shrine’s Senjokaku Hall, a massive wooden structure built in 1587. The hall’s name means “Hall of a Thousand Mats”, referring to its size, which is equivalent to a thousand tatami mats. It was commissioned by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan’s unifiers, as a place to pray for fallen soldiers. Although it was never completed due to his death, it’s still a popular Shinto shrine dedicated to his spirit.
Situated on a small hill near Itsukushima Shrine, Senjokaku offers incredible views of the island and the floating torii.
Right next to it is the 5-story pagoda, Goju no To, with its vibrant vermilion color and elegant architecture. Originally built in 1407, this pagoda showcases Chinese influences, particularly noticeable in the lotus-adorned railings and wooden pillars. At over 27 meters tall, it’s one of Miyajima’s most iconic structures, although the interior isn’t open to the public.
- Admission to Senjokaku Hall is 100 yen.
- Visiting hours are from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
Yamabe no Komichi
For a more off-the-beaten-path experience, I highly recommend a stroll along Yamabe no Komichi, the island’s oldest pathway connecting the port to Itsukushima Shrine. This charming alley is rich in history and lined with photogenic spots, giving you a glimpse of the island’s past and transporting you to a different era. It’s a quiet, scenic walk that adds a touch of nostalgia to your visit.
As you walk through the alley, you’ll come across several statues of Jizo, a Buddhist deity deeply cherished in Japan. Jizo is known as the protector of those most vulnerable—children, pregnant women, and travelers. It’s common to see these small statues on paths or stairways since they also watch over pilgrims.
This alley also offers some of the most breathtaking views of the island. From here, you can take in the iconic floating torii, the five-story pagoda, and the traditional rooftops of Miyajima’s homes.
Shopping Streets: Omotesando and Machiya
Omotesando Street is the main shopping street on the island. Stretching from the Miyajimaguchi port to Itsukushima Shrine, it’s filled with sensory delights.
One of the highlights here is the momiji manju, a sweet treat shaped like a maple leaf, famous in the region. These cakes, filled with sweet red bean paste, come in a variety of flavors and are the perfect snack to enjoy as you explore.
Another must-try in Omotesando is fresh oysters. Grilled oysters, known as yakigaki, are a local specialty, and they’re truly a treat. For something lighter, try a dish featuring anago, a type of eel native to the area, which is featured on many menus.
The street is lined with both shops and restaurants, inviting you to explore. If you’re looking for a unique souvenir, consider the ohakushi, a rice-stirring paddle that’s quite popular here. In fact, Omotesando is home to the largest rice paddle in the world!
For a more laid-back atmosphere, I recommend taking a walk down Machiya Street, which runs parallel to Omotesando. Named after the traditional Japanese houses that line it, this street offers a quieter experience. You’ll find quaint ryokans, art galleries, and unique restaurants here. One spot I loved is Kishibe, where I had an amazing homemade okonomiyaki on my first trip to the island.
Momijidani Park
At the foot of Mount Misen, you’ll find Momijidani Park, which runs alongside the river of the same name. This is a peaceful spot for a stroll, perfect for taking in some fresh air and enjoying the island’s natural beauty. If you plan to take the cable car up Mount Misen, I suggest taking a little extra time to wander through the park on your way to the station. It’s a calm and scenic detour that allows you to soak in the natural surroundings of this special part of Miyajima.
This park is especially stunning in autumn when the maple trees turn a brilliant shade of red. If you’re visiting Japan in mid to late November, you’ll be treated to a breathtaking scene, as the park is home to more than 700 maple trees of various species.
Mount Misen
Mount Misen is the highest point on Miyajima, standing 535 meters above sea level. From the top, the views are absolutely spectacular—you’ll get sweeping vistas of the Seto Inland Sea, nearby islands, and on clear days, even Hiroshima city.
There are two main ways to reach the summit: on foot or by cable car.
Hiking up Mount Misen
If you’re into hiking and nature, you’ll be happy to know there are three different routes to the top, each offering a unique mix of challenge and reward:
- Daisho-in route: This is considered the most scenic and least steep of the three, and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. It’s a great option if you want beautiful views without too much physical strain.
- Momijidani route: The shortest but steepest route. This 2.5-kilometer hike through dense forest takes around 1.5 hours. It’s ideal if you’re in good shape and up for a more intense climb.
- Omoto route: The longest of the three, taking between 2 to 3 hours to reach the top. Perfect for those looking for a longer, quieter hike.
Whichever route you choose, make sure to bring water, wear comfortable shoes, and prepare for a good workout. Hiking up and down can be demanding, so it’s best attempted if you’re in decent physical condition.
To help plan your hike and get the most out of your visit to Miyajima, check the official website for a map of all the routes and points of interest.
Cable Car Ride up Mount Misen
If you’re looking for a more relaxed option or are short on time, the cable car is a great alternative to hiking.
The ride is split into two sections, and to get there, you can take a free shuttle bus from Momijidani Park or walk about 10-15 minutes from Itsukushima Shrine. You can buy tickets at nearby shops or at the cable car entrance, though be prepared for queues, especially during peak season.
The cable car takes you up to Shishiiwa Station, which is 433 meters above sea level. From here, you can enjoy breathtaking views from the observation deck. If you’re feeling adventurous and have some time, I’d recommend continuing the hike to the top of Mount Misen. It’s about a 30-40 minute trek, and along the way, you can explore the “seven wonders of Mount Misen“—natural and spiritual landmarks that make the climb even more rewarding.
For the way back down, you might want to walk via the Daisho-in route, which is less steep and passes by the temple of the same name. If you’ve got the time and energy, I suggest trying both options—cable car up and a hike down.
- The cable car costs 1,800 yen for a round trip or 1,000 yen if you decide to hike one way.
- Operating hours are from 9:00 to 17:00, but these can vary depending on the season and weather conditions.
- You can check the shuttle bus timetable here.
Daisho-in temple
If there’s one place in Miyajima that truly took my breath away, it was Daisho-in temple. This Buddhist complex is one of Japan’s hidden gems and a must-see for anyone visiting the island. While many come for the famous Itsukushima Shrine, it’s Daisho-in that tends to steal the hearts of travelers.
Located at the base of Mount Misen, Daisho-in is part of the Shingon sect, founded by Kobo Daishi, a significant figure in Japanese Buddhism.
The temple is full of magical spots—each turn revealing something new. From the grand Kannon-do Hall to the serene Maniden Hall, there’s so much to explore. I loved wandering through the gardens, where you’ll find Jizo statues—each wearing a unique woolen hat or bib—adding a special charm to the place.
When you first arrive, you’ll notice a set of stairs leading to the main complex. But these aren’t just any stairs—along the way, you’ll see spinning prayer wheels engraved with Tibetan sutras.
Turning them as you climb is believed to have the same spiritual effect as reading the holy scriptures, so by the time you reach the top, you’re already considered blessed.
Another highlight is the cave that holds 88 statues, each representing a temple on the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage. The dim lighting and soft sound of water flowing nearby create a truly mystical atmosphere.
- Entrance to Daisho-in temple is free.
- It’s open from 8am to 5pm.
Where to eat in Miyajima
Miyajima is not only known for its stunning scenery and temples, but also for its fantastic food, heavily influenced by its island setting. If you’re a food lover, here’s where you can indulge in some local delicacies during your visit.
The island’s star dish is oysters, which are everywhere—grilled, fried, or as part of a set meal. You can’t leave without trying them.
Another local favorite is anago meshi, grilled eel served over rice, which is perfect if you’re after some traditional Japanese flavors.
And if you’re craving something sweet, don’t miss momiji manju—soft, maple leaf-shaped pastries filled with different flavors. They’re impossible to resist and usually cost around 300 yen each.
To try all these treats, head to Omotesando and Machiya streets, where you’ll find plenty of restaurants and food stalls serving up Miyajima’s best dishes.
Is one day on Miyajima enough?
While it’s possible to explore Miyajima in a single day, staying overnight gives you a chance to truly soak in the island’s peaceful beauty at a slower pace. When night falls and the crowds leave, Miyajima becomes incredibly serene. Plus, seeing the illuminated torii gate and shrine at night adds a magical touch to your visit.
Whether you stay for just a day or longer depends on your schedule and how much you want to immerse yourself in the island’s charm. If your time is limited, a day is enough to experience its highlights.
However, if you can, I highly recommend spending the night. This way, you can enjoy the island from sunrise to sunset and experience the dramatic shift between high and low tide.
Staying at a traditional ryokan is more than just a place to sleep; it’s a cultural experience. With tatami mat rooms, futons, and multi-course kaiseki dinners, you’ll experience Japan in a whole new way. The calm of Miyajima at night, once most tourists have left, is something truly special 😊.
Where to stay in Miyajima
While accommodations on Miyajima might be pricier compared to other parts of Japan, the experience of staying overnight on the island is worth every yen. The tranquility, connection to nature, and the chance to explore the island without the crowds make it a memorable experience.
Miyajima is a small island with only a few houses along the coast and lush forest covering the rest. There aren’t many large hotels or an abundance of choices, but the ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) you’ll find here offer a unique and authentic experience.
It’s important to book well in advance, especially during peak seasons or weekends, as options are limited and fill up quickly.
During our last visit, we stayed at Hotel Sakuraya, a charming ryokan on the waterfront, just a short walk from the ferry station and Itsukushima Shrine. It’s a great choice for those seeking a traditional experience at a relatively reasonable price. The rooms are simple but cosy, featuring tatami mats and futons, and there’s an onsen on the ground floor—a perfect way to relax after a day of exploring.
Two other options that caught our eye were the Hotel Jukeiso and the Hotel Iwaso, both slightly more luxurious with spectacular onsens. Unfortunately, they were fully booked during our visit, which is why I can’t stress enough how important it is to book early, especially if you have your heart set on a particular place.
How to get to Miyajima island
Getting to Miyajima is easy and requires a short ferry ride, as the island is separated from the mainland. Here’s how to reach Miyajima depending on where you are in Japan.
Getting to Miyajima from Hiroshima
The most common route to Miyajima is from Hiroshima, and you have two main options:
- By JR Sanyo Line train: From Hiroshima Station, take a JR Sanyo Line train to Miyajimaguchi Station (about 25 minutes). From there, it’s just a short walk to the ferry terminal, where you can catch a ferry to the island. The train ride is covered by the Japan Rail Pass, as is the JR-operated ferry, which takes about 10 minutes to reach Miyajima.
- By Hiroden tram: If you’re near Hiroshima Peace Park, another option is to take Hiroden tram line 2 to Hiroden-Miyajimaguchi Station. This takes around 40 minutes and is a convenient alternative if you’re exploring Hiroshima before heading to Miyajima. Keep in mind, the tram is not covered by the JR Pass.
Once you’re at Miyajimaguchi, you’ll need to take a ferry. Two companies operate ferries: JR and Matsudai. Both take about 10 minutes to get to the island. If you have a JR Pass, I recommend using the JR ferry since it’s included in your pass.
Note: As of October 1, 2023, there is a 100 yen tourist tax before boarding the ferry. This fee does not apply to children not yet in elementary school. You can pay the fee at ticket counters or machines.
The first ferry typically departs at 6:25am, and the last return ferry is at 10:14pm, so plan accordingly to avoid missing the last ferry. You can check the ferry schedule here.
Getting to Miyajima from other cities in Japan
Miyajima is also easily accessible from other major cities in Japan:
- From Kioto: You can take a shinkansen (bullet train) on the Sanyo Shinkansen line to Hiroshima, which takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes. Once you arrive at Hiroshima Station, follow the same steps to reach Miyajima as described earlier—take the train to Miyajimaguchi and then catch the ferry to the island.
- From Osaka: Just like from Kyoto, hop on the Sanyo Shinkansen line to Hiroshima. The journey takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes. Once in Hiroshima, follow the signs to catch the train to Miyajimaguchi, followed by the ferry to Miyajima.
- From Tokio: This trip is a bit longer but still a comfortable journey. Take a shinkansen on the Tokaido Shinkansen line to either Shin-Kobe or Okayama, then transfer to the Sanyo Shinkansen line to reach Hiroshima. The total journey takes around 4 hours and 20 minutes. Once you’re in Hiroshima, follow the same directions as you would from Kyoto or Osaka.
So, are you ready to discover Miyajima’s beauty? You won’t regret it!😊
